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Caring for newborn puppies can feel overwhelming, especially if you’re stepping into the role of caregiver for the first time. Whether you’re a breeder, foster parent, or pet owner, understanding how to properly nourish these fragile little ones during their most critical stage—birth until about 3-4 weeks of age—is essential. In this guide, I’ll cover everything you need to know about feeding newborn puppies, including essential tips, troubleshooting feeding challenges, and best practices for ensuring their long-term health. Let’s dive in!
- Why Proper Nutrition is Critical for Newborn Puppies
- How to Assess a Newborn Puppy’s Feeding Needs
- Feeding Methods for Newborn Puppies
- Selecting the Best Milk Replacer for Puppies
- Common Feeding Challenges and How to Solve Them
- Monitoring Growth and Health in Newborn Puppies
Why Proper Nutrition is Critical for Newborn Puppies
Let me tell you, when I first started working with dog breeders, I underestimated just how much proper nutrition could make or break a newborn puppy’s start in life. Over time, I learned the hard way that it’s not just about feeding them enough—it’s about feeding them the right way from the very first moment.
First Things First: Colostrum is Everything
If you’re not familiar, colostrum is the very first milk a mother produces, and it truly is like liquid gold for puppies.
Not only is it packed with antibodies that help jumpstart their immune system—which is almost non-existent at birth—but it also provides essential nutrients like water, growth factors, and digestive enzymes.
Colostrum:
- helps with the elimination of meconium (=a newborn’s first poop),
- limits hypoglycemia,
- and supports the systemic transfer of immunity.
Over the years, I have seen many litters where smaller puppies that struggled to latch on ended up fighting infections or, heartbreakingly, were the first to pass away. Lack of colostrum intake could definitely have played a major role in these sad stories.
Keep in mind that puppies should start nursing as soon as possible because peak absorption of colostrum occurs around 4 hours after birth and stops between 12-16 hours. This short window is absolutely crucial—so the sooner, the better.
If a puppy isn’t latching or the mother isn’t producing enough colostrum, a high-quality colostrum supplement (see table below for my suggestions) must be given within the first 16 hours after birth.
And remember: last-born puppies may be at higher risk of ingesting too little colostrum, putting them in danger of developing health issues.
You can consider “split suckling” to ensure weaker or smaller puppies get their fair share: temporarily remove the larger, stronger siblings so the smaller ones have better access to the udder. Manually positioning weaker pups near the teats can also help them get that vital colostrum.
| 👉🏽 To implement this technique effectively, you can download my detailed protocol here. |
Another valuable strategy is creating a “colostrum bank.” You can carefully milk colostrum from the mother around 24 hours after whelping, freeze it at about -20°C (approximately -4°F), and then warm it to about 30–35°C (86–95°F) before offering it to newborns. This is a fantastic way to provide passive immunity if, for any reason, fresh colostrum from the mother isn’t available or if her supply runs out.
| 👉🏽 For detailed instructions on setting up and maintaining a colostrum bank, you can download my protocol here. |
Quality matters, too. Colostrum from different mammary glands can vary, so even if puppies are nursing at the right time, they might not be getting enough of the good stuff.
Unfortunately, in dogs, we currently have no reliable, routine way to quickly measure colostrum quality (unlike in some other species where refractometers are used). Still, if the quality is poor—less than 20g/L of IgG for bitches—newborns may show clinical signs like hypoglycemia, hypovolemia, weight loss, or altered acid-base balance. If you notice these red flags, they should be addressed immediately.
If maternal colostrum is unavailable, there are alternatives I’d consider today:
| Canine Plasma/Serum? | I no longer recommend this approach as a first-line option. The beneficial effects on microbiome diversity were demonstrated under conditions where plasma was administered every other day for the entire 56-day period after birth—a regimen that is not very practical for most breeders. Additionally, plasma is often administered subcutaneously, which frequently results in abscess formation, adding further challenges. Top specialists in the field echo this perspective, suggesting that the drawbacks outweigh the potential benefits, despite some individuals continuing to swear by this method. For these reasons, I would prioritize other alternatives that are more practical, efficient, and less likely to cause complications. |
| Hyperimmune Egg Powder | Consider using hyperimmune egg powder derived from laying hens vaccinated against specific pathogens. This approach, already utilized effectively in other species, is also a valuable option for dogs. When available, it’s definitely worth considering, as studies have demonstrated that this type of supplementation supports healthy growth in newborn puppies. |
| Lactoferrin | When discussing bovine colostrum supplementation, the spotlight often falls on lactoferrin, one of its key bioactive components. Lactoferrin is a protein naturally found in colostrum and milk, known for its role in supporting the immune system. It helps regulate iron levels in the body, inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria, and promotes healthy gut development—functions that make it particularly valuable in early life nutrition. While lactoferrin supplements are readily available and hold potential for newborn puppy care, there are currently no studies specifically examining their use in this context. However, one intriguing study in kittens showed that a diet supplemented with lactoferrin significantly boosted their immune system. It’s worth noting, though, that the kittens in the study were 2–3 months old, making it difficult to draw conclusions about the effects on newborns. That said, lactoferrin remains an intriguing area of research, and its potential benefits for newborn puppies deserve further exploration |
Balance is Key: Nutrients Matter
Neonatal puppies are like tiny energy machines, needing approximately 15 kcal per 100g of body weight daily. To put that into perspective, that’s the equivalent of a 150 lb (68 kg) adult human consuming well over 10,000 kcal a day—several times more than a typical adult diet!
Their small stomachs can only hold so much at once, which is why frequent feedings are essential, especially during the first few weeks. It’s a lot of work, but ensuring they meet their caloric needs can mean the difference between thriving and merely surviving.
Very important: for puppies, there’s no perfect substitute for mother’s milk.
Just as human milk is the gold standard for human infants, a mother dog’s milk is uniquely formulated to meet every nutritional need of her puppies. It provides the perfect blend of calories, proteins, fats, and essential nutrients.
Don’t get me wrong: commercial formulas can be a lifesaver when the dam’s milk is unavailable. However, they’re a second-best option—they can’t yet fully replicate the benefits of natural milk.
Optimizing the mother dog’s milk production is critical to giving puppies the best start in life, and I’ve written a full blog post on this topic—so I encourage you to read it to learn more about this crucial aspect of puppy care.
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Hydration: The Often-Overlooked Lifeline
Newborn puppies can’t regulate their body temperature, and dehydration hits them fast.
That’s a real problem because, when you think about it, newborn puppies are more than 82% water! I’ve worked with dog breeders who didn’t realize that even slightly dehydrated puppies could become lethargic and stop nursing—creating a dangerous cycle that’s hard to break.
But here’s the tricky part: normal methods of assessing hydration, like checking skin elasticity by pinching it, do not work in sick neonates!
That’s why it’s crucial to rely on additional indicators.
Daily weight checks are one of the best tools you can use. Puppies should gain weight every day—this is a clear sign they’re staying hydrated and getting enough nutrients. If weight gain stalls, it’s a red flag you can’t ignore.
We’ll explore this in greater detail later in the blog, but the most effective way to monitor a newborn puppy’s growth is by using neonatal puppy growth charts, which you can download here.
Supplemental milk can also be a game-changer. It provides both hydration and essential nutrients when a dam’s milk isn’t enough or a puppy struggles to nurse. For me, this is always the first thing to consider when we want to rehydrate a newborn puppy.
One thing to always remember: whether it’s milk from the dam or a commercial formula, you need to warm it up just right. Around 30-35°C (86–95°F) is ideal—warm enough to prevent thermal shock but cool enough to preserve the bioactive compounds that promote healthy growth.
And whatever you do, avoid the microwave! Microwaving can destroy those essential nutrients puppies rely on.
Here is a table summarizing the best ways to rehydrate a newborn puppy, as well as their pros and cons:
| Method | Description | When to Use | Important Considerations |
| Oral Rehydration | Fluids are given by mouth, using a bottle, syringe, or orogastric tube. | For mild cases of dehydration when the puppy is normothermic and has normal gut functionality. | This is my go-to approach. Do not use in hypothermic puppies or if there are no bowel sounds. Fluids should be warmed to 30-35°C (86-95°F). Use an orogastric tube for puppies with a weak or absent suckle reflex. |
| Subcutaneous Fluids | Fluids are injected under the skin, often with a balanced electrolyte solution. | For mild to moderate dehydration when intravenous access is difficult. This is a frequently used method but it is NOT my favourite. | The best fluid to correct mild to moderate dehydration is a balanced electrolyte solution. Use sterile techniques. However, while subcutaneous fluids are absorbed, the process is not as rapid as with other routes. This is why they are NOT the best choice for urgent rehydration needs. Oral rehydration should be preferred in those cases. |
| Intravenous Fluids | Fluids are administered directly into a vein, using a catheter. | For severely dehydrated or hypovolemic puppies, or those with perfusion deficits. Best for aggressive fluid resuscitation. | This method may be difficult to use with very small or dehydrated puppies. |
| Intraosseous Fluids | Fluids are administered directly into the bone marrow using a catheter. | The preferred route for fluid therapy when IV access is unavailable. | Use an appropriate-size catheter. Performed by a veterinarian. |
| Intraperitoneal Fluids | Fluids are administered into the abdominal cavity. | May be used if other routes are not possible. | This route may be less effective and is generally not preferred compared to IV or IO. |
How to Assess a Newborn Puppy’s Feeding Needs
When it comes to newborn puppies, understanding their feeding needs can feel like solving a mystery—especially if you’re new to it. I’ll admit, in my early days working with breeders, I often relied on guesswork. Big mistake. Puppies are tiny, fragile creatures, and missing the signs of underfeeding (or overfeeding) can lead to serious consequences. Here’s what I’ve learned over the years about assessing and meeting their feeding needs.
Start by Weighing Them—Every Day
The first and most reliable way to assess a puppy’s feeding needs is by tracking their weight. Puppies should gain weight daily—it’s their way of showing us they’re thriving. If the scale says otherwise, it’s a big red flag. I remember a litter where one pup seemed perfectly fine—active, playful—but when we weighed him, he hadn’t gained an ounce in three days. Turns out, his stronger siblings were hogging all the teat time. That little scale? It literally saved his life.
So here’s the deal: Daily weight monitoring is non-negotiable.
A digital kitchen scale that measures in grams (because every gram matters!) is your best friend here. Record those numbers religiously in a log or evaluation sheet. Tracking helps you catch subtle trends before they turn into emergencies.
When choosing a scale, ensure it meets these two requirements:
- It should be precise within ±1 gram.
- It should have a weight range of 50 to 500 grams at least.
| 👉🏽 I recommend starting with kitchen scales (like this one), but for serious accuracy, consider this lab-grade scale, perfect for tracking puppy weights up to 5kg. |
Pro Tip: If you’re used to weighing in ounces, it’s better to switch to grams for newborn puppies because grams provide smaller, more precise measurements, allowing you to track even tiny weight changes that are crucial for their health.
If a puppy’s weight stagnates—or worse, drops—it’s time to act.
Lack of weight gain can signal serious problems like hypoglycemia or even underlying health issues. Early intervention can make all the difference.
Whether it’s supplementing with a milk replacer, improving access to the teat, or consulting your veterinarian, don’t wait—acting quickly can be life-saving.
As I’ve discussed in previous blogs, my approach is to first optimize the puppy’s environment and provide supplementation with a milk replacer. If there’s no improvement within 24 hours, it’s time to consult your veterinarian.
Pro Tip:
- Weigh your puppies at the same time every day for consistency.
- Keep an eye on the runt of the litter—they’re often the first to struggle.
- Use your log not just to spot problems but to celebrate progress. Watching those tiny numbers tick upward is one of the most rewarding parts of the process!
Observe Their Behavior
Hungry puppies are hard to ignore—they’ll cry, squirm, and search desperately for a teat.
A calm, quiet, and sleeping puppy is often a well-fed one, but don’t be fooled—quiet doesn’t always mean content.
Sometimes, underfed puppies become so weak they stop crying altogether. I learned this the hard way: I’ve seen a few runts of the litter that were believed to be just “easy-going.” In truth, they were severely underfed and dangerously close to hypoglycemia.
So don’t rely solely on those cries. It should be just one part of your monitoring process.
Now, here’s something fascinating: puppy cries aren’t just noise—they’re lifesaving signals.
Research shows that a puppy’s whine directly influences its mother’s behavior.
Dams are wired to respond more intensely to the cries of their own pups, often increasing their care based on the pitch and urgency of the sound. And dog breeders can use this knowledge to ensure both puppies and dams are thriving.
Here’s how breeders can make the most of this insight:
| Monitor Maternal Care | Pay close attention to how a dam reacts to her puppies’ vocalizations. A healthy mother instinctively responds to cries with nurturing actions like licking, nudging, or repositioning her pups. If she’s not reacting—or worse, ignoring her puppies—it might be time to step in or reassess her suitability for breeding. |
| Spot At-Risk Puppies | High-pitched whines often come from smaller or weaker puppies. These vocalizations can signal a need for extra attention, whether it’s supplemental feeding, additional warmth, or both. Identifying and addressing these cues early can make a world of difference. |
| Evaluate Breeding Stock | Mothers who fail to respond to their puppies’ cries—or show a preference for fostered puppies over their own—may not be ideal candidates for future breeding. Selecting dams with strong maternal instincts improves the overall welfare and survival of future litters. |
| Experiment with Playback | Though still a budding concept, using recordings of puppy cries might help assess a dam’s maternal instincts. If she reacts positively to playback of her own puppies’ whines but ignores cries from stranger puppies, it’s a good sign she’s attuned to her litter. |
Here’s another important point: silence isn’t golden in the whelping box.
Puppies that don’t cry when they’re cold, hungry, or in distress might be too weak to make noise. Similarly, if the dam doesn’t respond when puppies vocalize, it could signal deeper maternal or health issues.
Always stay observant and ready to intervene.
Check Their Tummies
A full puppy’s belly should be slightly rounded—not overly tight or bloated.
Gently press on their abdomen; it should feel firm but not hard. If the belly is flat or sunken, it’s a clear sign they aren’t eating enough. On the flip side, a rock-hard belly might signal overfeeding or digestive trouble.
Here’s a tip: when in doubt, compare a well-fed puppy’s belly to one that seems underfed—sometimes that side-by-side contrast is the easiest way to spot a problem.
What fascinates me is how this connects to research on piglets, particularly those affected by “intrauterine growth restriction.” Studies reveal that these piglets not only have smaller stomach capacity compared to normal piglets but their stomachs are also less functional, meaning they don’t support digestive health as effectively.
Puppies, especially low birth weight or premature ones, might share similar challenges.
This means that for these puppies, both the amount and frequency of feeding need to be adjusted. They should be fed smaller amounts to account for their reduced stomach capacity and more frequently to compensate for their less functional digestion.
Something to remember: a newborn puppy’s stomach capacity is roughly 4mL/100g but you don’t want to feed them anywhere near that amount (more about in the following sections).
Indeed, overfeeding can stretch their stomach and lead to long-term issues – especially diarrhea of overconsumption.
Whether bottle feeding or tube feeding, aim to slightly underfeed—nursing puppies usually stop when full, but tube-fed ones rely on us to decide the volume. It’s far better to offer smaller, more frequent meals than risk digestive upset from overfeeding.
So, when you’re feeding, always check their tummy afterward. It should look full but not bulging. It’s a balancing act, but your hands and observation skills will quickly become your best tools. Trust me—once you start paying attention to these subtle details, feeding becomes second nature.
Monitor Nursing Sessions
In the first few days, newborn puppies need to nurse every 2–3 hours. If you’re a breeder, there’s no such thing as too much observation at this stage—watch closely to ensure the puppies are latching securely and actively suckling. A weak latch, frequent breaks, or being pushed away by littermates might mean a puppy isn’t getting enough milk.
Practical Steps for Breeders During the First 3 Days
| Expect Almost Continuous Nursing | For the first 72 hours, mothers should be nursing nearly nonstop. |
| Direct Observation | Spend time observing each nursing session. Look for rhythmic swallowing and strong latching. Puppies that seem uninterested or struggle to latch need immediate attention. |
| Keep Notes | Record any puppies that aren’t latching properly, appear weaker, or seem excluded by siblings. |
Beyond the First Few Days
As puppies grow, their nursing patterns will naturally evolve. Here’s how you can stay ahead:
| Regular Check-Ins | For the first three weeks, check the puppies and mother every few hours during the day. Nighttime nursing frequency may decrease slightly as the mother and puppies adjust. |
| Video Monitoring | If possible, use a camera to monitor nursing sessions overnight. This allows you to track both frequency and duration without disturbing the litter. Video tools can provide valuable insights into maternal behavior across a 24-hour period. |
| Recognize Normal Changes | By around two weeks, the puppies’ independence grows, and the mother may start to interrupt nursing sessions. This is normal, but be vigilant for any pups that seem to be lagging behind. |
Watching for Whines
One interesting observation: as mentioned earlier in this blog, mothers are highly responsive to their puppies’ whines, especially higher-pitched ones, which often come from weaker or smaller pups. Pay attention to which puppies are crying the most—it could indicate they’re not nursing effectively.
Key Takeaways for Successful Puppy Rearing
- Spend extra time monitoring nursing during the first three days.
- Use video monitoring as a tool for better, non-invasive observation.
- Be prepared to supplement feeding if necessary
- Keep an eye out for individual variations in nursing frequency and duration. Some puppies may naturally nurse less, but consistency is key.
Evaluate Stool Quality
Yes, poop matters. A puppy’s stool can tell you a lot about their health and whether they’re getting the right nutrition.
Healthy stools are soft but formed. Loose, watery stools could mean overfeeding, while hard or infrequent stools might indicate underfeeding or dehydration. It’s not glamorous, but monitoring stool quality can be one of the most important tools for keeping puppies healthy.
Very important: if you don’t see stools from your newborn puppies, it’s not necessarily a problem—defecation is a reflex stimulated by the mother licking their perineal area, and she often eats the stools. Check their tummies instead; if something’s wrong or the mother isn’t doing her job, their bellies will feel abnormal.
Understanding the Importance of Meconium
The first stool a puppy passes, called meconium, is crucial for their initial health assessment.
Meconium is usually dark green to black, tarry, and should be passed within the first 24 hours after birth. If it’s delayed or absent, it might indicate a problem that requires veterinary attention.
The transition from meconium to regular puppy stools is also a key sign of proper digestion. You want to see the stools shift from tarry to a mustard-yellow, soft consistency as they grow.
Stool Quality as a Health Indicator
Monitoring stool quality doesn’t stop after meconium. Observing the color, consistency, and frequency of a puppy’s stools gives you vital clues about their digestion and overall health.
Here are some simple tips:
- Adaptation: Keep an eye on stool transitions. Normal puppy stools should go from dark green-black (meconium) to yellow and soft.
- Monitoring: Log the color, consistency, and frequency of stools for each pup. Pay attention to any signs of diarrhea or constipation.
Hygiene is Non-Negotiable
Cleanliness in neonatal care isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about preventing infections that could quickly become life-threatening. Keep the whelping box clean and dry, wash your hands before handling puppies, and sterilize feeding equipment if you’re supplementing their diet.
I’m a huge advocate of spot cleaning as part of hygiene.
It’s a lifesaver for keeping things under control without stressing out the mom or pups. You can check out my spot cleaning protocol for maternity care here.
Feeding Methods for Newborn Puppies
Feeding newborn puppies can feel like a high-stakes operation, especially if the mother isn’t able to nurse or if you’re dealing with a large litter. Over the years, I’ve worked with countless breeders and learned that while feeding methods may seem straightforward, each one comes with its own nuances and challenges. Let me walk you through the most common methods and share a few lessons I’ve learned along the way.
Natural Nursing
When it comes to feeding newborn puppies, nursing from their mother is the gold standard. And it’s fascinating to see how something as basic as the way puppies nurse can shape their growth and even their behavior down the line.
Understanding Nursing Positions
Did you know there’s more to nursing than just latching on? The position a mother takes while nursing can impact puppy development in surprising ways:
| Ventral Nursing | Here, the dam lies flat on her stomach, offering easy access to her nipples. It’s a comfy setup for everyone involved, but because puppies don’t need to work as hard to feed, it may limit some of the problem-solving skills they’d develop in a more challenging position. |
| Vertical Nursing | In this setup, the dam sits or stands, making the puppies work harder to reach her nipples. This effort might encourage independence and resilience—key traits for working dogs or adventurous pets. |
| Day vs. Night Nursing | Moms often mix things up depending on the time of day, preferring sitting during daylight hours and lying flat at night. |
How Breeders Can Use This Knowledge
Understanding these positions gives breeders an edge in shaping their puppies’ future development. Here’s how you can put this into practice:
| Observe the Trends | Watch your dam’s nursing habits. Is she always lying down, or does she prefer to sit occasionally? Pay attention to how these positions might affect each puppy—some might thrive more in one setup than another. |
| Encourage Variety | While you can’t force a dam into a specific position, you can influence her choice. Adjust the bedding in the whelping box to promote certain postures. Flatter bedding might nudge her toward a vertical position, while softer, plush bedding invites a ventral position. |
Practical Tips for Breeders
If you’re wondering where to start, here are some hands-on strategies:
| Redesign the Whelping Box | Include different surface textures and layers. A mix of soft and firm bedding will naturally encourage a variety of nursing positions. |
| Supplement When Needed | If the dam heavily favors lying down, make sure the smaller or slower-growing puppies get extra attention. Hand-feeding or supplemental milk might be necessary for their development. |
| Use Video Monitoring | It’s not just for cute footage! Watching nursing sessions on video helps you spot patterns and see which puppies might need extra support. |
| Raise the Stakes—Literally | Adding a small platform or raised section in the whelping box might prompt the dam to sit or stand, giving the puppies that extra challenge during feeding. |
Why It Matters
The way puppies nurse doesn’t just affect their weight gain—it can shape their future personalities. Puppies who work harder to feed may grow into more independent, resilient dogs, which could be a game-changer for working or performance-focused breeders.
Bottle Feeding
When natural nursing isn’t an option, bottle feeding is often the go-to solution.
It allows you to track how much milk each puppy is getting and ensures they’re meeting their nutritional needs. But here’s the thing: bottle feeding isn’t as straightforward as it seems, and there are a few key things breeders need to keep in mind.
Not all bottles or nipples are created equal. Puppies need a nipple that matches their small mouths, and the flow rate has to be slow to prevent aspiration (milk entering the lungs).
Why Bottle-Feeding Requires Extra Care
Research on preterm human infants sheds some light on potential challenges with bottle feeding that may also apply to puppies. For example, bottle feeding requires a different sucking mechanism compared to natural nursing. Puppies, like human infants, could get used to the artificial flow of milk, which might make transitioning back to nursing more difficult.
Breeders should also pay attention to the risk of improper hygiene when bottle-feeding. Bottles and teats can harbor bacteria if not cleaned thoroughly after every use. Puppies are highly vulnerable to infections, so strict sanitation protocols are essential.
How to Bottle Feed Puppies Safely
Here’s a step-by-step guide to bottle-feeding puppies that takes these concerns into account:
- Warm the milk replacer to about 36.5-38°C (98-100°F) —as close to the puppy’s body temperature as possible.
- Position the puppy naturally by holding them on their stomach. Never feed them on their back, as this can cause milk to flow into their lungs.
- Let the puppy suckle at its own pace. Avoid squeezing the bottle forcefully—gentle, steady feeding is the goal.
Best Practices to Mimic Natural Nursing
To minimize potential issues like “nipple confusion” (a term from human studies that can loosely apply here), choose a bottle and nipple that closely mimic a puppy’s natural nursing motion. This helps them coordinate sucking, swallowing, and breathing—a skill essential for healthy feeding.
Additional Tips for Success:
- Watch for feeding cues like restlessness, rooting, or soft whimpering. Responding to these behaviors instead of sticking rigidly to a schedule can improve feeding outcomes.
- Hygiene is key—sanitize all equipment after every feeding session to prevent infections.
- Monitor puppies closely during and after feeding to ensure they’re latching correctly and not struggling to swallow or breathe.
How much to feed
When it comes to bottle-feeding newborn puppies, two key factors to nail down are the amount to feed and the number of feeding sessions per day. Let’s start with the amount—something I’ve already touched on earlier in this blog.
To figure out how much to feed, remember this golden rule: newborn puppies need roughly 150 kcal per kilogram of body weight per day.
With this number in mind, the next step is knowing the caloric content of your chosen milk replacer. This information is essential—if it’s not listed on the packaging, don’t hesitate to reach out to the manufacturer. They’re usually happy to provide it, and honestly, it’s worth the extra effort.
Once you’ve got that data, you can calculate how many milliliters of milk replacer you need to feed the puppy daily. The formula is simple math: divide the required calories by the caloric density of the milk (calories per milliliter).
Sure, you can rely on the feeding guidelines provided with the milk replacer, but if you want pinpoint accuracy, doing the math yourself ensures you’re meeting the puppy’s specific needs.
Pro tip: Puppies grow fast, so make adjustments as their weight changes to keep up with their nutritional needs. And remember, overfeeding can be just as harmful as underfeeding, so aim for that sweet spot based on their weight and age.
How many meals
Now, onto a super important and practical question: how many times a day should you bottle-feed a puppy? Knowing this makes all the difference in keeping those little ones healthy and thriving.
Here’s the approach I’ve used (and it works like a charm):
| 1st week of life | 8 meals per day (yes, that’s every 3 hours—puppies need round-the-clock care at this stage). |
| 2nd week of life | 5 meals per day (about every 4-5 hours—slightly more breathing room but still frequent). |
| 3rd week of life | 4 meals per day (every 6 hours or so). |
| 4th week of life (if needed) | 4 meals per day (though weaning usually starts here, bottle-feeding can still fill gaps as needed. |
By the 4th week, I typically like to introduce weaning, but there’s no absolute rule. Some puppies transition smoothly, while others might still need an occasional bottle. It’s all about being flexible and observing their individual needs.
So, now that you know the number of meals and the daily feeding amount (from the earlier formula), you can easily figure out how much to feed per meal. Just divide the total daily amount by the number of feedings. For example, if a puppy needs 120 ml a day and you’re feeding them 8 times, that’s 15 ml per meal.
Stomach volume and low-birth/premature puppies
One last critical point to keep in mind: compare the calculated feeding volume to the estimated stomach capacity of the puppy. This step is essential to avoid overfeeding, which can lead to serious complications.
Here’s the general guideline: a puppy’s stomach volume is roughly 4 ml per 100 g of body weight. For example, a 200 g puppy has a stomach capacity of about 8 ml. Make sure the volume you plan to feed per meal stays within this limit to prevent discomfort, regurgitation, or worse.
For low-birth-weight or premature puppies, this calculation becomes even more critical. Their stomachs are smaller and may not function as efficiently as those of a normal puppy. These little ones require smaller feeding volumes and, in most cases, more frequent meals to meet their nutritional needs without overwhelming their digestive system.
My rule of thumb? If I suspect a puppy is premature or has a low birth weight, I usually add two extra meals per day to the usual schedule. For instance, instead of 8 meals per day in the first week, I’ll go up to 10. This spreads their intake over more feedings, making it easier for their fragile system to handle.
Pro tip: Always monitor how the puppy responds to feedings. Signs like bloating, vomiting, or restlessness after a meal could mean the feeding volume is too much. When in doubt, it’s better to err on the side of smaller, more frequent meals—especially for these vulnerable puppies.
Responsive Feeding?
Responsive feeding, or cue-based feeding, is a game-changer for dog breeders wanting to optimize care for newborn puppies. Traditionally, bottle-feeding follows a rigid schedule, but adopting responsive feeding—a concept borrowed from human medicine—can lead to healthier, happier puppies. Let’s explore how this approach works and why it might be worth considering.
What Is Responsive Feeding?
At its core, responsive feeding is about tuning into a puppy’s individual needs and responding to their cues in real time. Instead of adhering strictly to scheduled feeds, you observe hunger and satiety signals to guide feeding sessions. This method not only meets their physical needs but also supports their emotional and behavioral development during the critical neonatal period.
Here’s a quick breakdown of the cues to watch for:
| Hunger Cues | Puppies display early hunger signs like restlessness, mouthing, licking, or rooting (searching for a nipple). Crying is a late sign—and by then, stress has already set in. Spotting early cues ensures a more comfortable experience for the puppy. |
| Satiety Cues | Puppies naturally signal when they’re full by stopping suckling, turning their heads away, or drifting off to sleep. Respecting these signals helps avoid overfeeding, which can lead to digestive upset and discomfort. |
Why Consider Responsive Feeding for Puppies?
Responsive feeding has long been used in human medicine not only to prevent overfeeding but also to support healthy behavioral development. It strengthens the bond between mother and child and aids in regulating emotions and internal states. These benefits, when applied to puppies, could support their behavioral maturation and ability to cope with stress later in life—an area of development that starts as early as the neonatal stage.
For breeders, this approach represents a shift from traditional meal feeding, which typically involves fixed intervals of 2–3 hours. While structured schedules are convenient, they don’t account for individual puppy needs. Responsive feeding, on the other hand, adapts to each puppy’s unique hunger cues, offering a more personalized and potentially beneficial feeding routine.
Challenges and Practical Tips
Adopting responsive feeding does come with challenges. The biggest one? It’s time-intensive.
Breeders would need to monitor puppies closely and feed only when hunger cues appear. This requires a keen eye and possibly creative solutions, such as:
| Setting up monitoring systems | Use cameras or assign dedicated caregivers to observe puppies’ behavior. |
| Tracking individual needs | Maintain notes on each puppy’s feeding patterns and cues for better precision. |
| Balancing with practicalities | If feeding on demand isn’t feasible 24/7, a hybrid approach—using both scheduled and cue-based methods—can still offer significant benefits. |
The Bigger Picture
Responsive feeding isn’t just about nutrition; it’s about nurturing puppies in a way that promotes emotional health and resilience. By respecting their natural rhythms, breeders can set the stage for better stress management and behavioral stability as the puppies grow.
While it might feel like extra work, the potential long-term benefits make responsive feeding a strategy worth trying—especially for healthy puppies requiring bottle-feeding.
Syringe Feeding
Syringe feeding can be a lifesaver for weak or struggling puppies, but it’s not something to jump into without understanding the risks. I’ll admit, I’m not the biggest fan of this method because of how easily things can go wrong. Feed too quickly, and you risk aspiration pneumonia, which can be life-threatening. Still, I’ve met many breeders who swear by it, and with the right precautions, it can work well for those fragile pups who just can’t latch onto a bottle.
When Syringe Feeding is Necessary
Syringe feeding isn’t a first choice—it’s for situations where puppies are too weak to nurse from their mom or a bottle.
This is often the case with premature puppies or those with low birth weight.
If you notice a puppy isn’t gaining enough weight (see section on how to monitor growth later in this blog), syringe feeding may be the best option to help them catch up. It’s also useful for supplemental feeding if the mother’s milk supply is low or if the puppy has a poor suckling reflex.
How to Perform Syringe Feeding
If you’re going to try syringe feeding, preparation and technique are everything.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to make it safer and more effective:
| Use a small syringe | A 1–3 mL syringe gives you better control over how much milk is delivered. |
| Keep the puppy upright | Always hold them in a natural, upright position to prevent milk from going into their lungs. |
| Go slow | Let the puppy swallow each drop before giving more—this takes patience but reduces the risk of aspiration. |
| Don’t overfeed | Overfeeding can cause digestive upset, like diarrhea, which weak puppies can’t afford to deal with. |
Syringe feeding can also come in handy when you’re supplementing a litter with uneven nursing habits. Just make sure you’re monitoring each puppy’s progress closely. Consistent weight checks and observing their energy levels will help you know if syringe feeding is truly helping or if there’s another issue at play.
Tube Feeding
Tube feeding might sound intimidating, but it’s often the best option for puppies who are too weak to nurse or swallow properly. This method delivers milk directly into the stomach, reducing the risk of aspiration during feeding. However, it requires proper training to avoid complications like damaging the puppy’s esophagus or stomach.
I’ve personally used tube feeding as a last resort for puppies too weak for bottle or syringe feeding, and it can truly be a lifesaver. If you’re a breeder, I believe this is a skill worth learning. Don’t hesitate to ask your veterinarian to teach you—they’ll show you how to measure and insert the tube safely and correctly.
When to Consider Tube Feeding
- A puppy isn’t gaining weight despite other feeding methods.
- Premature puppies lacking the strength to nurse effectively.
Tube Size
The diameter of the feeding tube matters. Typically, sizes range from 6 to 14 French, depending on the puppy’s size and age. Choosing the right size minimizes discomfort and ensures proper feeding.
How to Perform Tube Feeding
If you’re new to tube feeding, here are the essential steps:
| Positioning | Always feed the puppy in an upright, natural position to prevent aspiration. |
| Slow Feeding | Administer milk replacer gradually using a syringe to control the flow. This helps avoid regurgitation or aspiration. |
| Observation | Watch for signs of complications, such as vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, or nasal discharge. Also, check for tube clogging. If any issues arise, consult your veterinarian for guidance. |
How Much and How Often?
Feeding amounts depend on the puppy’s weight.
See my recommendations in the bottle-feeding section of this blog.
Duration of Tube Feeding
Tube feeding should continue until the puppy can maintain adequate nutrition independently. This typically takes at least 3 days but depends on the puppy’s progress.
Key Takeaways for Feeding Success
| Monitor Intake | Track how much milk each puppy consumes to avoid overfeeding (which can cause diarrhea) or underfeeding (leading to dehydration). |
| Maintain Hygiene | Clean all feeding equipment thoroughly after each use to prevent bacterial infections. |
| Act Quickly on Red Flags | Lethargy, lack of weight gain, or stool changes can signal feeding issues. Address these immediately. |
Tube feeding isn’t something to fear—it’s a vital skill that can save lives in critical moments. With proper training and attention to detail, breeders can master this technique and ensure their puppies have the best chance of thriving.
Selecting the Best Milk Replacer for Puppies
Choosing the right milk replacer for puppies can feel overwhelming, especially with so many products on the market. Trust me, I’ve been there—standing in the pet store aisle, scrutinizing labels, and wondering, Which one is actually good enough for these tiny lives? Over the years, I’ve learned that not all milk replacers are created equal, and finding the best one can make a huge difference in a puppy’s survival and growth. Here’s how to do it right.
Why Milk Replacers Are Necessary
When a mother dog can’t nurse her litter, milk replacers become a lifesaver.
Whether she’s not producing enough milk, has rejected the puppies, or is dealing with health problems, a high-quality milk replacer steps in to fill the gap. I always say, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”—and that’s especially true in newborn puppy care.
Among the must-haves in your maternity toolkit, a good milk replacer should top the list.
But not all milk replacers are created equal.
To truly support a puppy’s development, it must closely mimic the nutrient profile of a mother dog’s milk. Puppies need the perfect balance of proteins, fats, and carbohydrates, and even small deviations can lead to developmental challenges or health issues.
That said, there’s no substitute for maternal milk. It’s nature’s gold standard for giving puppies the best start in life. Unfortunately, when maternal milk isn’t available, the right milk replacer becomes essential. It’s a safeguard to ensure puppies still receive what they need for healthy growth and development.
What to Avoid
Not all milk replacers are created equal, and some can actually harm your puppies. Trust me, I’ve seen breeders try to make homemade formulas—cow’s milk, goat’s milk, even human infant formula—with the best intentions. But here’s the hard truth: these alternatives just don’t cut it. They lack the right balance of nutrients puppies need and can lead to problems like diarrhea, malnutrition, and stunted growth.
Why Common Milk Alternatives Fall Short:
| Goat’s Milk and Cow’s Milk | Lactose Overload: These options are high in lactose but low in fat and protein, unlike bitch’s milk. Puppies primarily use fat as their energy source—not lactose—and too much lactose can cause diarrhea. Protein Mismatch: Cow’s and goat’s milk contain proteins that are harder for puppies to digest and don’t align with their growth needs. |
| Human Infant Formula | Nutritional Gaps: Designed for human babies, these formulas don’t include the specific proteins and fats that puppies need. Puppies thrive on a precise mix of macronutrients found only in their mother’s milk or a high-quality puppy milk replacer. |
| Homemade Recipes | Risky Combinations: Common DIY mixtures—like cow’s milk with egg yolks and sugar—are nutritionally imbalanced. They might seem like a quick fix but can lead to malnutrition and digestive upsets. |
See also my previous blog on why goat’s milk is NOT a good alternative for newborn puppies.
The Risks of Inappropriate Milk:
Feeding puppies unsuitable milk substitutes can result in:
- Poor growth and weight gain.
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Compromised immune systems, leaving puppies vulnerable to infections.
- Digestive issues like diarrhea or bloating, which further weaken their development.
What Breeders Should Do:
When mom’s milk isn’t an option, invest in a high-quality commercial milk replacer specifically formulated for puppies.
How to Prepare and Store Milk Replacer
Proper preparation and hygiene are key to successful feeding with a milk replacer.
Here’s a more detailed breakdown to help you get it just right:
| Mixing Milk Replacer | Follow the instructions carefully: The ratio of powder to water matters. Too much powder can cause digestive issues, and too little won’t provide enough nutrients. Always measure accurately with kitchen-grade tools. Use clean, warm water: Ensure the water is potable. If the quality is uncertain, opt for bottled or boiled water that has been cooled to the correct temperature. Mix thoroughly: Whisks or clean forks can help avoid clumps, ensuring the mixture is smooth and consistent. |
| Temperature Control | Warm the formula to 36.5-38°C (98-100°F)—this mimics the puppy’s natural body temperature. A baby bottle warmer or a warm water bath works best for consistent results. Avoid microwaves: They can create hot spots that might burn a puppy’s mouth. Instead, test the temperature on your wrist—it should feel comfortably lukewarm. |
| Hygiene Practices | Sterilize all feeding equipment: This includes bottles, nipples, syringes, and mixing containers. Boil them in water for at least five minutes or use a steam sterilizer. Clean after every use: Even small residues can harbor bacteria, so sanitize equipment thoroughly between feedings. |
| Storage Tips | Powdered formula: Store unopened powder in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. Once opened, transfer it to an airtight container to keep it fresh and prevent moisture contamination. Prepared formula: Refrigerate immediately and use within 24 hours. Discard any leftovers after feeding or if they’ve been at room temperature for more than two hours. Freezing formula: Avoid this, as freezing can alter the texture and nutritional content. |
| Additional Safety Tips | Always prepare fresh milk replacer and never leave it sitting out for extended periods—it’s a breeding ground for bacteria. After feeding, discard any leftover formula in the bottle or syringe to prevent contamination. |
Common Feeding Challenges and How to Solve Them
Feeding newborn puppies is one of the most rewarding yet nerve-wracking experiences, especially when things don’t go as planned. These tiny, fragile beings rely on you for survival, and feeding challenges can pop up out of nowhere. Over the years, I’ve encountered my fair share of issues—from weak latches to unexpected digestive troubles—and learned how to troubleshoot them effectively. Let’s dive into the most common feeding challenges and how to address them like a pro.
Puppy Won’t Latch onto the Bottle
The Problem:
A puppy that refuses to latch can’t feed properly, leading to dehydration and weight loss. This often happens with premature or weak puppies who lack the energy or instinct to suckle.
The Solution:
| Stimulate the Suckling Reflex | Gently rub the nipple against the puppy’s lips or tongue. Sometimes, a little patience and persistence are all it takes. |
| Check the Nipple Size | Ensure the nipple is small enough for the puppy’s tiny mouth. If it’s too big, try a smaller sized nipple or bottle-feeding/syringe feeding until the puppy is stronger. Tube feeding can be considered as well if needed. |
| Warm the Milk | Puppies are more likely to latch when the milk replacer is at body temperature. Use a thermometer to avoid overheating. |
Overfeeding or Underfeeding
The Problem:
Overfeeding can lead to bloating, diarrhea, or even aspiration, while underfeeding results in poor growth and lethargy. Striking the right balance can be tricky, especially for first-time feeders.
The Solution:
| Follow the Guidelines | Use the feeding instructions provided with your milk replacer. See my recommendations on how much to feed and how often to feed in the botte-feeding section of this blog. |
| Watch for Signals | Stop feeding when the puppy turns its head away or appears full. Their belly should look slightly rounded, not tight or distended. |
| Keep Records | Track how much and how often each puppy eats. This helps you spot patterns and address issues early. |
Milk Coming Out of the Nose (Aspiration)
The Problem:
Milk leaking from a puppy’s nose is a sign of aspiration—milk entering the nasal passages or lungs. This is dangerous and can lead to aspiration pneumonia.
The Solution:
| Stop Immediately | If you see milk coming from the nose, stop feeding and gently wipe the puppy’s nostrils with a clean cloth. |
| Recheck the Feeding Position | Puppies should always be fed while lying on their stomach, in a natural nursing position. Feeding on their back increases the risk of aspiration. Also be sure to examine the puppy’s palate, as cleft palates can sometimes be a concern. |
| Slow Down the Flow | Use a nipple with a slower flow rate or gently tilt the bottle to control the milk flow. |
| Monitor for Symptoms | Watch for coughing, nasal discharge, or difficulty breathing after an aspiration event. If you notice these signs, seek veterinary care immediately. |
Digestive Upset (Diarrhea or Constipation)
The Problem:
Digestive issues like diarrhea or constipation can disrupt a puppy’s growth and hydration levels. Diarrhea may result from overfeeding, an incorrect milk replacer, or bacterial contamination. Constipation can occur if the puppy isn’t being stimulated properly after feeding.
The Solution:
| Adjust Feeding Amounts | Overfeeding is a common cause of diarrhea. Reduce the amount slightly and see if it resolves. |
| Stimulate After Feeding | Use a warm, damp cloth to gently rub the puppy’s genital area, mimicking the mother’s licking. This helps stimulate bowel movements. |
| Hydrate | Dehydration from diarrhea can be deadly. See my recommendations on how to rehydrate a newborn puppy in the previous sections. |
Puppy Isn’t Gaining Weight
The Problem:
Puppies should gain weight daily. If a puppy isn’t gaining weight, it may not be getting enough milk or could have an underlying health issue.
The Solution:
| Weigh Daily | Use a precise digital scale to monitor weight changes. Puppies that aren’t gaining or are losing weight need immediate intervention. |
| Supplement Feeding | If the mother isn’t producing enough milk or other littermates are crowding the teat, step in with bottle or syringe feeding. |
| Check for Underlying Issues | Sometimes, congenital problems like cleft palates or infections prevent puppies from feeding effectively. Consult a vet if weight stagnates despite your efforts. |
| 👉🏽 I recommend starting with kitchen scales (like this one), but for serious accuracy, consider this lab-grade scale, perfect for tracking puppy weights up to 5kg. |
Weak or Lethargic Puppies
The Problem:
Weak puppies often lack the energy to nurse, creating a vicious cycle of malnourishment and worsening weakness.
The Solution:
| Warm the Puppy | Hypothermia is a common cause of lethargy. Place the puppy on a heating pad set to low (with a towel barrier) or under a heat lamp. Puppies won’t nurse if they’re cold. |
| Offer Small, Frequent Feedings | Weak puppies can’t handle large meals. Feed them every 1-2 hours in smaller amounts to build their strength. |
| Boost Energy | For severely weak puppies, a vet might recommend a glucose or dextrose solution for an energy boost. |
Rejected by the Mother
The Problem:
Sometimes, a mother dog rejects one or more puppies, leaving you to step in as the primary caregiver.
The Solution:
| Create a Calm Environment | A stressed mother is more likely to reject her litter. Ensure the whelping area is quiet and comfortable. |
| Hand Feed | Feed the rejected puppy using a bottle, syringe, or tube feeding, depending on its condition. |
| Monitor Closely | Rejected puppies are often the weakest. Keep an eye on their weight, hydration, and overall health. |
Feeding Too Quickly
The Problem:
Rushing through feedings can overwhelm a puppy’s tiny digestive system or lead to aspiration.
The Solution:
| Use the Right Tools | A slow-flow nipple is ideal for newborns. If milk is coming out too quickly, tilt the bottle to reduce flow or switch to a different nipple. |
| Take Breaks | Pause during feeding to allow the puppy to rest and swallow properly. |
Monitoring Growth and Health in Newborn Puppies
When it comes to newborn puppies, monitoring their growth and health is one of the most critical parts of their early care. These tiny, fragile beings rely on us to catch the subtle signs of trouble before they escalate. I’ve worked with countless litters over the years, and I can’t stress enough how consistent observation and a few practical tools can make all the difference. Here’s how to stay on top of their progress and keep them thriving.
Why Monitoring Matters
Newborn puppies are born with undeveloped immune systems, making them highly vulnerable to illness, dehydration, and malnutrition. The first week of life is particularly crucial because even minor issues can become life-threatening if not addressed promptly. Monitoring their growth and health allows you to spot problems early and take corrective action.
Track Their Weight Daily
A puppy’s weight is one of the clearest indicators of their health and growth.
How to Do It:
| Use a Digital Scale | A kitchen scale with precision to the gram works perfectly. As mentioned earlier, choose a weight scale with a precision of ±1g, capable of measuring weights ranging from at least 50g to 500g, ideal for accurately tracking the growth of newborn puppies. |
| Weigh at the Same Time Daily | Consistency is key. Morning or evening is fine—just pick a time and stick to it. |
| Keep Records | Create a chart to log each puppy’s daily weight. This helps you spot trends or identify puppies that are falling behind. |
| 👉🏽 I recommend starting with kitchen scales (like this one), but for serious accuracy, consider this lab-grade scale, perfect for tracking puppy weights up to 5kg. |
Red Flags:
- Weight stagnation or loss over 24 hours.
- Puppies that fail to gain weight as much as their littermates.
Pro Tip: If a puppy isn’t gaining weight, consider supplemental feeding or consult a vet to rule out underlying issues.
Neonatal Growth Charts: THE game changer
Using neonatal growth charts to monitor your newborn puppies is a total game changer.
These charts are based on the same principles as human pediatric growth charts, giving you a quantitative way to track growth and spot any potential issues early on. While they’re not especially helpful for identifying puppies that aren’t gaining weight, their real power lies in revealing the less obvious trends—like puppies gaining too much weight.
Why is that important? Well, puppies who gain excessive weight early on are at higher risk for issues like obesity later in life and even joint disorders. The extra weight puts more stress on their developing joints, which can lead to problems like swimmer puppy syndrome.
Growth charts also give you a bigger-picture view of the entire litter. For example, if you have a puppy that’s smaller than its littermates, the chart can confirm whether their growth rate is within a healthy range, even if they’re smaller than average. This context helps us appreciate the uniqueness of each puppy without overreacting to size differences.
Here’s why I’d call these charts a must-have tool:
| Early risk detection | Easily spot puppies that aren’t gaining or are gaining too much weight. |
| Prevent long-term issues | Address weight-related risks like joint stress and obesity early. |
| Contextual insights | Understand the growth trends of your entire litter while respecting individual differences. |
In my experience, these charts take the guesswork out of monitoring growth. They help you make informed decisions and feel confident in your care, whether you’re raising one puppy or a whole litter. If you’re not already using them, I highly recommend giving them a try—they’re a game changer, no doubt!
When to Call the Vet
If you notice any of these signs in a puppy, don’t wait to act:
- Rapid weight loss or failure to gain weight.
- Persistent diarrhea or vomiting.
- Difficulty breathing or coughing.
- Lethargy or refusal to nurse, even after warming or supplemental feeding.
Here’s my rule of thumb: when a puppy isn’t thriving, immediately focus on optimizing their environment. Make sure they’re warm, hydrated, and getting enough nutrition—this often means starting bottle feeding right away.
If there’s no improvement after 24 hours, it’s time to contact your veterinarian for a consultation. Don’t delay—newborns can decline quickly if their needs aren’t met in time.
Feeding newborn puppies is a rewarding yet delicate task that requires attention to detail, patience, and a lot of care. With the right knowledge and tools, you can give your puppies the best start in life, ensuring they grow up healthy and strong. Ready to take the next step? Share your experiences or questions below—let’s learn together!
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